Do you "get" winter? In this era of so-called seasonless living, we've lost our connection to the natural rhythms of the year. (My 20-something stepdaughters' 365-day-a-year addiction to flip-flops comes to mind.) It's not as if we're still huddling in caves in January with our dwindling supply of nuts and berries. So why are the seasons relevant? Or are just *so* last millennium?
It wasn't that long ago that our ancestors *were* crouched in caves snacking on squirrel jerky, so our mind/body system is still designed to respond to the changing seasons in what Traditional Chinese Medicine calls an "appropriate" manner. In winter, it means slowing down (conserving calories during the food-scarce months) and turning inward (not that much to do in the cave, after all, and too much cave chatter makes for some pretty frayed nerves by spring.) It means eating more warm, cooked foods, things that we can gather and store, such as root vegetables. Not a lot of salad in the ol' cave.
Before you chug that nice chilled glass of orange juice to ward off a cold, imagine what happens when that cold, raw food, not to mention all that sugar, is introduced into your system. Your body is cooled both by the temperature of the juice and by the inherent property of raw fruit, which is "cooling" to the body. Sugar is particularly problematic during cold season, because it causes mucous to form. A great alternative: a cup of ginger tea with a generous squeeze of lemon, a little bit of real maple syrup or honey, and a dash of cayenne pepper.
Think about the noun, "cold." It says it all. Cold = colds. Your grandma was right about staying out of a draft and wearing a muffler. Protecting the vulnerable back of your neck is a bit of an obsession in Chinese medicine. So is eating warm food, and using seasonal produce.
Kale, spinach and other winter greens are fantastic sources of antioxidant vitamins like A, C and E. It's easy to grow these and other winter greens, like arugula. For the most seasonally-attuned preparation, steam or braise them. I love them with a nice filet of wild salmon over high-protein udon noodles, which I use in place of pasta in many recipes.
Some other nutritional tips for staying in balance with the season:
- If you're prone to sinus problems in the fall and winter, eating warm, moist and oil-rich food is thought to be particularly beneficial; oily fishes, olive oil, nut oils and even ghee (Indian style clarified butter) are wonderful. Applying warm oil or anti-inflammatory, rich shea butter to the skin is also helpful.
- Eat locally and organically. Produce that's grown without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, in our area, is in sync with your climate and season-the same natural rhythms that are influencing you everyday. It's easier than ever to do, with our fantastic farmer's markets. A chef who worships local produce (and has nearly everything grown locally, at Love Apple Farms in Ben Lomond) is David Kinsch at Manresa. On his plates, you'll get acquainted with amazing heirloom vegetables you've never heard of before.
- For a fast winter dinner, I quickly chop the greens, and then dunk them, some udon noodles and some wet-smoked salmon into Trader Joe's Ginger Soy broth and cook until the greens are done but still bright green. Voila!…A seasonally attuned meal in a scandalously fast 12 minutes. In contrast, a seasonally attuned summertime dinner would be rich in raw vegetables and finished with some luscious local fruit.
- Drink water. Hot water. Tea is much better for you than cold water. Don't overhydrate in the wintertime; the season is ruled by the Water element in Chinese medicine. (But if you want to feel weak and weepy, drink up!)
For the social animals that we are, winter is our annual low point. Summer is the natural season for gatherings and celebration. What's wrong with this picture? Just when nature is telling you to retreat within, turn down the volume, give it a rest, and chill out, you're pounded with the holiday season and its demands, from shopping to partying. No wonder we get the holiday blues.
One of the best antidotes for our perpetual mind-body imbalance is meditation. Yes, the M word is awfully intimidating, with its image of rigorous practice and stringent self-discipline. But even if you don't meditate, just sit quietly and breathe mindfully, for 10-15 minutes a day. If you miss a day, don't worry. If you miss more, don't worry. Just do it as often as you're able.
I was recently inspired to renew my meditation practice by a book which explained that would-be meditators often give up because they set too high a standard for themselves. Even if you manage to meditate one day a week, or one day a month, resist the urge for self-flagellation. Occasional meditation is much better than none at all, and semi-regular meditation is downright health enhancing. The lower you set the bar for meditation "success" the more inclined you'll be to do it. (My lap-averse cat now shows up when I'm meditating, and curls up on my half-lotus, something she's never been known to do when alpha waves were not present. Though it's not in the official meditation playbook, I can't exactly turn her away when she's seeking enlightenment.)
So as you make your way through this winter, take a page from the cave-dwellers you descended from. Stay as warm as you can, eat food that's in season, and find a place to hide out from the hectic pace of the holidays, if only for a few minutes. And you'd like to do something a little more evolved, there's nothing like a spa treatment for reuniting body and soul!
Monday, December 3, 2007
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Ziplock Beauty--What's in Your Bag?
Traveling light and looking great have become exponentially harder in the brave new era of the Ziplock-as-cosmetic-bag. But I confess, I’ve been humbled by the realization that the five pound case I used to lug has been pretty effectively replaced by a humble plastic bag.
If you’re paring down, which of your grooming essentials make the cut?
It depends on where you’re going. Today we’re heading for the St. Regis Monarch Beach in Orange County for a few days with grandson Tyler. Emphasis on “beach”. It’s hot and humid and foggy too. That means hair will be hopeless, so I’m ditching the blowout aids and letting nature take its course with some de-frizzing curling balm. It also means that we’ll have decent amenities in our shower, so for two nights it’s worth risking the use of hotel hair conditioner. (But not shampoo; I’m faithful to Redken Smooth Down, which James Craig has in a cute little travel size.) I usually carry my own Wynne Elixirs shower gel, too, in a relaxing scent like Fiji Exotic. It’s one of the bath rituals from home I can’t give up. I’ve found that nice hotels tend to have very heavily perfumed products by fragrance manufacturers.
Beach means sun. I’m toting a nice full 2 ounce bottle of AcquaCures HydraSun. I love it because it affords instant protection. I “cocktail” together a drop of our Perfect Blend foundation (I carry about a quarter ounce of it one of our little plastic sampling jars—yes, you can have one!) with an equal drop of Hydrasun and smooth it on generously for a natural outdoor finish that still hides my hyperpigmentation.) And, thank heavens it’s a powder--a brushful of Preston Wynne Mineral Makeup completes the sun protection strategy.
When I go to a fun-in-the-sun destination like family favorite Kona, where I’ll be applying a full-body thermonuclear shield every day, twice a day, for a week, I confess I head for Walgreens. I buy a giant tube of Water Babies sunblock in 50, so I’ll be sure to use enough. HydraSun for the face and neck, though! And since I’ve yet to manage carrying on to Hawaii, that honkin’ tube goes into the suitcase. My husband ruefully submits to a liberal slathering of the stuff each morning in paradise, reminding me of the expression my cat wears while submitting to far worse indignities on the vet’s exam table. (He was recently taunted by colleagues for not returning from his Hawaiian vacation with a tan.)
Another beauty staple that will always fit in the Ziplock is a teeny bottle of eyedrops. Airplane rides and sunny days have a tendency to give your eyes an unflattering pink glaze, and that umbrella-bedecked cocktail will dilate frazzled blood vessels even further. If you have thin skin and a tendency to flush, you may look like you’ve been on a two week bender after one glass of wine. I always use eyedrops before a dinner out or party and I “touch up” if it’s a long evening.
What else gets into the bag? Right now, current faves for my dehydrated, 46 year old skin are Wynne Omega Silk Cleanse, WynneEver hydrating toner (great for airplane misting), AcquaCures Gentle eye makeup remover, climate-appropriate moisturizer, and another teeny jar of AcquaCures HydraRadiance.
As much as we’d all love to have travel sizes in our favorite products, we’ve found they can cost almost as much to manufacture as “real” sizes. So it’s off to the drugstore for little bottles and jars. It’s easy for refilled jars and bottles to become contaminated, so run jars through the dishwasher and replace containers regularly.
Finally, don’t run afoul of the Lipgloss Terminator at San Jose airport! She’s the only TSA agent who has ever insisted that I stuff my half dozen tubes of gloss into the full-to-bursting Ziplock. To evade her eagle eye, I carry over ten lipstick shades in our very handy refillable palette compact, a traveler’s best friend.
Happy trails!
If you’re paring down, which of your grooming essentials make the cut?
It depends on where you’re going. Today we’re heading for the St. Regis Monarch Beach in Orange County for a few days with grandson Tyler. Emphasis on “beach”. It’s hot and humid and foggy too. That means hair will be hopeless, so I’m ditching the blowout aids and letting nature take its course with some de-frizzing curling balm. It also means that we’ll have decent amenities in our shower, so for two nights it’s worth risking the use of hotel hair conditioner. (But not shampoo; I’m faithful to Redken Smooth Down, which James Craig has in a cute little travel size.) I usually carry my own Wynne Elixirs shower gel, too, in a relaxing scent like Fiji Exotic. It’s one of the bath rituals from home I can’t give up. I’ve found that nice hotels tend to have very heavily perfumed products by fragrance manufacturers.
Beach means sun. I’m toting a nice full 2 ounce bottle of AcquaCures HydraSun. I love it because it affords instant protection. I “cocktail” together a drop of our Perfect Blend foundation (I carry about a quarter ounce of it one of our little plastic sampling jars—yes, you can have one!) with an equal drop of Hydrasun and smooth it on generously for a natural outdoor finish that still hides my hyperpigmentation.) And, thank heavens it’s a powder--a brushful of Preston Wynne Mineral Makeup completes the sun protection strategy.
When I go to a fun-in-the-sun destination like family favorite Kona, where I’ll be applying a full-body thermonuclear shield every day, twice a day, for a week, I confess I head for Walgreens. I buy a giant tube of Water Babies sunblock in 50, so I’ll be sure to use enough. HydraSun for the face and neck, though! And since I’ve yet to manage carrying on to Hawaii, that honkin’ tube goes into the suitcase. My husband ruefully submits to a liberal slathering of the stuff each morning in paradise, reminding me of the expression my cat wears while submitting to far worse indignities on the vet’s exam table. (He was recently taunted by colleagues for not returning from his Hawaiian vacation with a tan.)
Another beauty staple that will always fit in the Ziplock is a teeny bottle of eyedrops. Airplane rides and sunny days have a tendency to give your eyes an unflattering pink glaze, and that umbrella-bedecked cocktail will dilate frazzled blood vessels even further. If you have thin skin and a tendency to flush, you may look like you’ve been on a two week bender after one glass of wine. I always use eyedrops before a dinner out or party and I “touch up” if it’s a long evening.
What else gets into the bag? Right now, current faves for my dehydrated, 46 year old skin are Wynne Omega Silk Cleanse, WynneEver hydrating toner (great for airplane misting), AcquaCures Gentle eye makeup remover, climate-appropriate moisturizer, and another teeny jar of AcquaCures HydraRadiance.
As much as we’d all love to have travel sizes in our favorite products, we’ve found they can cost almost as much to manufacture as “real” sizes. So it’s off to the drugstore for little bottles and jars. It’s easy for refilled jars and bottles to become contaminated, so run jars through the dishwasher and replace containers regularly.
Finally, don’t run afoul of the Lipgloss Terminator at San Jose airport! She’s the only TSA agent who has ever insisted that I stuff my half dozen tubes of gloss into the full-to-bursting Ziplock. To evade her eagle eye, I carry over ten lipstick shades in our very handy refillable palette compact, a traveler’s best friend.
Happy trails!
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Getting to the Bottom of Mystery Zits!
True acne is a capricious condition that usually has several contributing causes. But acne cosmetica, acne that’s caused by stuff we apply to our face, is easily controlled. It also has some telltale characteristics. If you are already an acne sufferer, you will be particularly vulnerable to cosmetic acne. In this entry I’ll talk about two of the most common sources of acne cosmetica and how you can prevent and treat them.
Forehead, Hairline and Side-of-the-Face Breakouts
A person plagued only by breakouts along the hairline or on the forehead is usually getting those from hair products. It’s a good idea to cleanse your skin after washing and conditioning your hair, to ensure that those products have been completely removed. The surface of your skin is covered with dead skin cells, which are made of the same keratin protein as your hair. Conditioning ingredients especially are designed to bond with the keratin of hair, coating it with emollients and waxes that will smooth down the cuticle.
The other forehead breakout culprits are styling products, particularly hair sprays. Even if you protect your face with a towel when you use hair spray (and you should) the product will rub off onto your skin as the hair comes in contact with it throughout the day. Bangs are a particularly effective delivery system for the acne-causing ingredients in hair products.
Remember, hair products are formulated for your hair, not your skin. I’ve yet to see a “non comedogenic” hair spray! It may take some trial and error to discover which styling aids are least aggravating for your skin, but a general rule of thumb is, “the stronger the hold, the bigger the breakouts.” Sticky lacquers are not skin-friendly.
Cheek Area Breakouts
If you have lumps, bumps, blackheads or pustules in the cheek area only, there’s a very simple explanation: it’s your blush. I’m not talking about breakouts that cover the cheeks and jawline, but breakouts that occur right in the area where you apply blush. With the return of cream and gel blushes, this condition is more common than ever.
What causes these breakouts? F D & C red dyes, used in cheek colors and lipstick, are highly acnegenic. Does this mean that first time you apply blush you’ll break out? Probably not. It can take up to 90 days for a comedone (pore impaction or blackhead) to form. Comedones don’t always turn into pustules—in other words, they don’t always blow up into a full fledged “zit.” You may just have congestion and clogged pores in this area. But many women and girls have full blown acne in the precise region of their blush.
What to do? In years past, we substituted a blushy-looking eye shadow for our client’s cheek color. Eye shadows are not permitted to contain the F D & C red dyes, because of the permeability of the eyeball membrane. Instead, a colorant called carmine is used. Carmine comes from a natural source—a South American insect, the cochineal. (Fun fact: before artificial red pigments were invented, carmine was one of the world’s most precious substances. Today the cochineal is still cultivated, harvested, boiled, dried, and turned into powder. I know, beauty isn’t pretty.)
The good news is that carmine does not cause acne, unlike its artificial red dye counterparts. The bad news is that finding eye shadows that looked like blush got very hard after the creepy pink and red eye shadow trend of the late 80’s was over.
Finally! At a recent cosmetics conference in New York, I was introduced to a new cosmetics company that is producing mineral blushes (talc free) that contain no F D & C red dyes. I nearly kissed the feet of the formulator. Now we have an abundance of blushes, in very lovely colors. Set up an appointment for a complimentary makeup update and see which one will work for you. (This same company is creating gorgeous lip glosses that we’re now carrying, too. If you’re a Nars fan you may spot a couple of “tributes” in the collection.)
Getting Smooth and Clear
Because it takes a long time for a comedone to form, it also takes awhile for the skin to purge the congestive material that is already down in there. Don’t expect an overnight clearing when you get off your old blush.
Here’s how to get unclogged fast:
1. Wash your blush brush. Get all the old dye out of it. Or treat yourself to a soft, fluffy new one.
2. Use a product containing a mild concentration of salicylic acid. Our Botanical Balancer is a perfect blend of healing aloe, antibacterial essential oils like Tea Tree, and Salicylic Acid, which helps to unblock clogged pores by exfoliating them. Yes, your pores are lined with dead skin cells too. Virtually any alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) will help, but Salicylic is the best pore decongestant. This is a great treatment for periodic breakouts, and it’s 100% non-drying. A lot of our very acne prone clients and eruptive teens use Botanical Balancer as their oil-free moisturizer.
3. Get a facial treatment and add a Purifying Deep Pore Session ( $30) an extra 15 minutes of focused extraction work. Or cut to the chase and schedule our Express Cleanse ($70), which is a no-frills session focusing purely on exfoliation and extraction.
Enjoy your happy new skin!
Forehead, Hairline and Side-of-the-Face Breakouts
A person plagued only by breakouts along the hairline or on the forehead is usually getting those from hair products. It’s a good idea to cleanse your skin after washing and conditioning your hair, to ensure that those products have been completely removed. The surface of your skin is covered with dead skin cells, which are made of the same keratin protein as your hair. Conditioning ingredients especially are designed to bond with the keratin of hair, coating it with emollients and waxes that will smooth down the cuticle.
The other forehead breakout culprits are styling products, particularly hair sprays. Even if you protect your face with a towel when you use hair spray (and you should) the product will rub off onto your skin as the hair comes in contact with it throughout the day. Bangs are a particularly effective delivery system for the acne-causing ingredients in hair products.
Remember, hair products are formulated for your hair, not your skin. I’ve yet to see a “non comedogenic” hair spray! It may take some trial and error to discover which styling aids are least aggravating for your skin, but a general rule of thumb is, “the stronger the hold, the bigger the breakouts.” Sticky lacquers are not skin-friendly.
Cheek Area Breakouts
If you have lumps, bumps, blackheads or pustules in the cheek area only, there’s a very simple explanation: it’s your blush. I’m not talking about breakouts that cover the cheeks and jawline, but breakouts that occur right in the area where you apply blush. With the return of cream and gel blushes, this condition is more common than ever.
What causes these breakouts? F D & C red dyes, used in cheek colors and lipstick, are highly acnegenic. Does this mean that first time you apply blush you’ll break out? Probably not. It can take up to 90 days for a comedone (pore impaction or blackhead) to form. Comedones don’t always turn into pustules—in other words, they don’t always blow up into a full fledged “zit.” You may just have congestion and clogged pores in this area. But many women and girls have full blown acne in the precise region of their blush.
What to do? In years past, we substituted a blushy-looking eye shadow for our client’s cheek color. Eye shadows are not permitted to contain the F D & C red dyes, because of the permeability of the eyeball membrane. Instead, a colorant called carmine is used. Carmine comes from a natural source—a South American insect, the cochineal. (Fun fact: before artificial red pigments were invented, carmine was one of the world’s most precious substances. Today the cochineal is still cultivated, harvested, boiled, dried, and turned into powder. I know, beauty isn’t pretty.)
The good news is that carmine does not cause acne, unlike its artificial red dye counterparts. The bad news is that finding eye shadows that looked like blush got very hard after the creepy pink and red eye shadow trend of the late 80’s was over.
Finally! At a recent cosmetics conference in New York, I was introduced to a new cosmetics company that is producing mineral blushes (talc free) that contain no F D & C red dyes. I nearly kissed the feet of the formulator. Now we have an abundance of blushes, in very lovely colors. Set up an appointment for a complimentary makeup update and see which one will work for you. (This same company is creating gorgeous lip glosses that we’re now carrying, too. If you’re a Nars fan you may spot a couple of “tributes” in the collection.)
Getting Smooth and Clear
Because it takes a long time for a comedone to form, it also takes awhile for the skin to purge the congestive material that is already down in there. Don’t expect an overnight clearing when you get off your old blush.
Here’s how to get unclogged fast:
1. Wash your blush brush. Get all the old dye out of it. Or treat yourself to a soft, fluffy new one.
2. Use a product containing a mild concentration of salicylic acid. Our Botanical Balancer is a perfect blend of healing aloe, antibacterial essential oils like Tea Tree, and Salicylic Acid, which helps to unblock clogged pores by exfoliating them. Yes, your pores are lined with dead skin cells too. Virtually any alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) will help, but Salicylic is the best pore decongestant. This is a great treatment for periodic breakouts, and it’s 100% non-drying. A lot of our very acne prone clients and eruptive teens use Botanical Balancer as their oil-free moisturizer.
3. Get a facial treatment and add a Purifying Deep Pore Session ( $30) an extra 15 minutes of focused extraction work. Or cut to the chase and schedule our Express Cleanse ($70), which is a no-frills session focusing purely on exfoliation and extraction.
Enjoy your happy new skin!
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
What to do when skin care routines veer off course! The Skin Analysis and Home Care Review
The science of skin care has evolved tremendously from when I began my career as an esthetician in 1984. These were the very early years of “anti aging” products. I remember the first one: “Night Repair” by Estee Lauder, the first serum to be introduced to the mass market. It was a blockbuster. Since then, legions of blockbusters and breakthroughs have followed. Retin-A. Glycolic Acid. The list goes on and on.
The skin care landscape is incredibly cluttered and confusing. From infomercials to physicians, we’re bombarded with different messages, warnings and philosophies on a daily basis. We’re all tantalized by the latest technology every time we pass a cosmetics counter, or visit the dermatologist, or have a spa treatment. Even our friends make recommendations based on what they like, and what works for them.
Not surprising, then, to learn that more and more clients are complaining of excessive sensitivity and inflammation, products that no longer “work”, allergic reactions, and overall diminishing returns from their home care. Many of us are figuring out the hard way that more is not better.
How can you get a skin care routine back on track?
A great, tried and true method is to put everything you’re using in a bag and schlep it in to your professional esthetician for a complimentary analysis and consultation. (Don’t be shy. We know that, statistically, about a third of the products in your bag will be PW offerings!)
It’s important to have a trained skin care professional review the ingredients in the products you’re using to check for conflicts, as well as redundancies. Too much of a good thing is…well, bad. Beyond brand-specific “product knowledge,” estheticians are trained to understand the cosmetic chemistry of any product formulation. If you’re acne-prone, they can spot hidden comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients. If you’re sensitive, they can identify “hyperactive” ingredients that may be overwhelming your skin. If you’re chronically dry, they can explain to you why the cleanser you’re using is too stripping, or how lack of toner afterward is causing you to dehydrate.
Inflammation has now been shown to be the biggest culprit in skin aging. All the villains you’re familiar with—the sun, hot water, too much exfoliation—are villainous because they create inflammation. So one of the principal objectives of a “tuneup” consultation is to weed out products or product combinations that may be creating inflammation.
Another option is to alter the frequency or sequence of use. Some products are very beneficial for you daily. Some are more beneficial if you alternate them. Many clients find they need two different products for the same purpose, used in alternation. Neither one quite gets the job done on its own.
Others, happily, can get away with a simpler routine. I am a pragmatist myself. I am not, despite the fact that I've developed skin care products myself, a product geek. I don't have time to apply that much stuff twice a day. Nor will it all fit into a Ziploc bag when I fly!
The myth that we need to use only products from one line is pure hooey. However, combining products willy-nilly is a worse idea. A solid understanding of what ingredients actually do is crucial to putting together an optimal “mixed” skin care routine. Good chefs don't have to follow recipes to the letter because they understand which ingredients combine effectively.
Today’s skin care consumer is, also in the words of one skin care manufacturer, “promiscuous.” We spread the love around. We flit from counter to counter. We order online. We change it up constantly. The grass is always greener on the other side of the aisle. This restlessness rarely results in a truly effective skin care regimen. It results in what I call a “permanent work in progress.”
The goal of a skin care regimen tuneup with an esthetician is to coordinate the regimen again, and get it working harmoniously and even synergistically. It’s definitely not to get you to toss out everything you’re using now. (No, I will not tell you you have to part with your beloved Creme de la Mer. I might mention in passing, however, that the famous balm was based on a 1920's-era Swiss formula still used for our Cellular Repair Cream. And I could, possibly, give you a sample of that...)
As an esthetician, my motto is always, “Whatever works.” I once gave a facial to an 85 year old woman, an avid golfer, whose skin care routine consisted solely of smearing Mentholatum on her face daily. She had nary a wrinkle on her skin. It was spectacular. What was I, a whippersnapper esthetician, going to tell this amazing octegenarian? To change her skin care routine? She had found something that worked for her—though how it did, I can’t begin to explain!
The key to good skin care is finding what works for you, and then being sensitive to changes in your skin that may require adjustments. It’s pretty much a given that you will be increasing the amount of emollients in your skin care products as you get older, for example. Some people who grew up with acne are loathe to do that, and may require some assistance in overcoming that mental block, even though their skin is dry and flaky at 45.
As well, your skin changes seasonally. Many routines need to be adjusted for summer and winter conditions. Sometimes that’s a small tweak. Sometimes that’s a wholly different routine.
In skin care there are no absolutes. There is only what works for your unique skin conditions, which are forged by diet, genetics, environment, emotions. Three of those four conditions are constantly shifting; is it any wonder your home care routine is a moving target?
Today’s professional esthetician functions more as an enlightened editor than the scolding authority figure of yesteryear. He or she provides the best service by collaborating with the guest, not dictating to them. The Home Care Review is the perfect way to experience the benefits of such a partnership.
To schedule your complimentary Skin Analysis and Home Care Review, call us at (408) 741-5525 (Saratoga) or (408) 335-1777 (Hotel Los Gatos). We'd love to help you get your skin care routine back on track.
The skin care landscape is incredibly cluttered and confusing. From infomercials to physicians, we’re bombarded with different messages, warnings and philosophies on a daily basis. We’re all tantalized by the latest technology every time we pass a cosmetics counter, or visit the dermatologist, or have a spa treatment. Even our friends make recommendations based on what they like, and what works for them.
Not surprising, then, to learn that more and more clients are complaining of excessive sensitivity and inflammation, products that no longer “work”, allergic reactions, and overall diminishing returns from their home care. Many of us are figuring out the hard way that more is not better.
How can you get a skin care routine back on track?
A great, tried and true method is to put everything you’re using in a bag and schlep it in to your professional esthetician for a complimentary analysis and consultation. (Don’t be shy. We know that, statistically, about a third of the products in your bag will be PW offerings!)
It’s important to have a trained skin care professional review the ingredients in the products you’re using to check for conflicts, as well as redundancies. Too much of a good thing is…well, bad. Beyond brand-specific “product knowledge,” estheticians are trained to understand the cosmetic chemistry of any product formulation. If you’re acne-prone, they can spot hidden comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients. If you’re sensitive, they can identify “hyperactive” ingredients that may be overwhelming your skin. If you’re chronically dry, they can explain to you why the cleanser you’re using is too stripping, or how lack of toner afterward is causing you to dehydrate.
Inflammation has now been shown to be the biggest culprit in skin aging. All the villains you’re familiar with—the sun, hot water, too much exfoliation—are villainous because they create inflammation. So one of the principal objectives of a “tuneup” consultation is to weed out products or product combinations that may be creating inflammation.
Another option is to alter the frequency or sequence of use. Some products are very beneficial for you daily. Some are more beneficial if you alternate them. Many clients find they need two different products for the same purpose, used in alternation. Neither one quite gets the job done on its own.
Others, happily, can get away with a simpler routine. I am a pragmatist myself. I am not, despite the fact that I've developed skin care products myself, a product geek. I don't have time to apply that much stuff twice a day. Nor will it all fit into a Ziploc bag when I fly!
The myth that we need to use only products from one line is pure hooey. However, combining products willy-nilly is a worse idea. A solid understanding of what ingredients actually do is crucial to putting together an optimal “mixed” skin care routine. Good chefs don't have to follow recipes to the letter because they understand which ingredients combine effectively.
Today’s skin care consumer is, also in the words of one skin care manufacturer, “promiscuous.” We spread the love around. We flit from counter to counter. We order online. We change it up constantly. The grass is always greener on the other side of the aisle. This restlessness rarely results in a truly effective skin care regimen. It results in what I call a “permanent work in progress.”
The goal of a skin care regimen tuneup with an esthetician is to coordinate the regimen again, and get it working harmoniously and even synergistically. It’s definitely not to get you to toss out everything you’re using now. (No, I will not tell you you have to part with your beloved Creme de la Mer. I might mention in passing, however, that the famous balm was based on a 1920's-era Swiss formula still used for our Cellular Repair Cream. And I could, possibly, give you a sample of that...)
As an esthetician, my motto is always, “Whatever works.” I once gave a facial to an 85 year old woman, an avid golfer, whose skin care routine consisted solely of smearing Mentholatum on her face daily. She had nary a wrinkle on her skin. It was spectacular. What was I, a whippersnapper esthetician, going to tell this amazing octegenarian? To change her skin care routine? She had found something that worked for her—though how it did, I can’t begin to explain!
The key to good skin care is finding what works for you, and then being sensitive to changes in your skin that may require adjustments. It’s pretty much a given that you will be increasing the amount of emollients in your skin care products as you get older, for example. Some people who grew up with acne are loathe to do that, and may require some assistance in overcoming that mental block, even though their skin is dry and flaky at 45.
As well, your skin changes seasonally. Many routines need to be adjusted for summer and winter conditions. Sometimes that’s a small tweak. Sometimes that’s a wholly different routine.
In skin care there are no absolutes. There is only what works for your unique skin conditions, which are forged by diet, genetics, environment, emotions. Three of those four conditions are constantly shifting; is it any wonder your home care routine is a moving target?
Today’s professional esthetician functions more as an enlightened editor than the scolding authority figure of yesteryear. He or she provides the best service by collaborating with the guest, not dictating to them. The Home Care Review is the perfect way to experience the benefits of such a partnership.
To schedule your complimentary Skin Analysis and Home Care Review, call us at (408) 741-5525 (Saratoga) or (408) 335-1777 (Hotel Los Gatos). We'd love to help you get your skin care routine back on track.
Monday, February 26, 2007
Water, Water, Everywhere!
Keeping your body hydrated is important. It's one of the keys to beautiful skin, too. By now, we all know that we're supposed to be consuming 64 ounces of water each day. Yet clients who are diligently drinking this much water lament that they're constantly in the bathroom.
Good news. We've got 24 hours in a day, so if we spend 8 hours of it sleeping--and we don't want to quaff a big glass of water before bedtime--that leaves us fifteen glorious hours to hydrate. A glass of water here, a cup of tea there, and you've met your hydration obligation without spending half your day in the restroom.
It's also important not to over-hydrate. Yes, it's possible to have too much of a good thing. If you notice that you feel lightheaded or a little shaky after gulping your sixteen ounces of Fiji, ease up a bit! I hate to break it to you, my health conscious friend, but your electrolytes are becoming diluted. No, that's not the outcome we're looking for. It's best to consume water 3-4 ounces at a time. This also prevents you from overtaxing your kidneys and bladder.
So next time you contemplate that towering bottle of AquaFina, breathe easy--you've got all the time in the world to hydrate.
Good news. We've got 24 hours in a day, so if we spend 8 hours of it sleeping--and we don't want to quaff a big glass of water before bedtime--that leaves us fifteen glorious hours to hydrate. A glass of water here, a cup of tea there, and you've met your hydration obligation without spending half your day in the restroom.
It's also important not to over-hydrate. Yes, it's possible to have too much of a good thing. If you notice that you feel lightheaded or a little shaky after gulping your sixteen ounces of Fiji, ease up a bit! I hate to break it to you, my health conscious friend, but your electrolytes are becoming diluted. No, that's not the outcome we're looking for. It's best to consume water 3-4 ounces at a time. This also prevents you from overtaxing your kidneys and bladder.
So next time you contemplate that towering bottle of AquaFina, breathe easy--you've got all the time in the world to hydrate.
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
THE FEBRUARY, 2007 SPA INSIDER NEWSLETTER
The Spa Insider
Intelligence for Smart Spa Goers
I know how hard it is to carve out the time for well-being and self care, and truly appreciate the effort and investment that you’re making to take care of yourself. So I would love to hear from you if there is anything I can do to make your spa visits more satisfying or enjoyable. You can reach me directly at (408) 741-1750, ext. 30, or via e mail at pwb@prestonwynne.com.
Enjoy!
Peggy Wynne Borgman
Founder and President,
Preston Wynne Spas
DE-AGING GRACEFULLY:
THE NEW HYDRA-FACIAL WAVE MACHINE IS HERE!
The three pillars of De Aging Gracefully at Preston Wynne:
1. Acupuncture Facial Rejuvenation
2. The HydraFacial Wave Machine
3. The Wynne Omega Skin Repair System
Microdermabrasion enters a new era at Preston Wynne with the debut of our state of the art HydraFacial Wave machine on February 1. This high tech device uses a powerful blast of salicylic acid or beta hydroxy acids instead of crystals to deeply exfoliate the skin. That’s right—it’s liquid microdermabrasion. (As my husband exclaimed, “Oh! Pressure Washing!”) If you didn’t know the difference, you’d swear it was was crystal microderm—you’ll experience the same “cat’s tongue” sensation, and of course, a profound resurfacing exfoliation.
Two additional advances: because the treatment liquefies pore impactions, it can perform a fabulous “hydraulic extraction” leaving pores amazingly clean in a short period of time. (If you wish your treatments were longer on “fun” and shorter on extraction, this is your answer—it’s amazing on noses!)
The second phase of the 45-minute, intensive treatment is perhaps the most remarkable. Using the same technology and a different setting, the HydraFacial hand piece infuses an anti oxidant hydrating serum deep into the epidermis. Its gentle but highly focused pressure pushes fluid into the tissue, resulting in noticeably plumper skin and instantly firmer facial contours. The HydraFacial produces astonishing results when combined with our Acupuncture Facelift. The HydraFacial, by hydrating and exfoliating the skin, actually makes the acupuncture treatment even more effective.
Ask your esthetician if the HydraFacial is right for you! Or just ask our concierge to schedule a complimentary dermal analysis with one of our expert licensed estheticians.
SMART SUN CARE: IS YOUR SUNSCREEN SAFE?
Is sunscreen actually bad for you? Lately, much has been made of the fact that some sunscreen users have shown an increased incidence of skin cancer, giving the public the impression that the product itself caused damage. Actually, it’s the improper use of sunscreen that can leave the wearer vulnerable. Here are three tips for optimum protection:
1. Sunscreen must be applied generously; a teaspoonful is the official amount for the face and neck if you want full SPF benefits. Try two successive half-teaspoon applications to cut down on the “goop factor.” Be sure to allow your sunscreen to sink in. Application of other products (makeup, moisturizer) may affect SPF; check with your esthetician for the correct application sequence for your skin type and choice of sunscreen.
2. Like a good scout, be prepared! Always apply well before sun exposure—at least 30 minutes.
3. Always use fresh product—the active ingredients in sunscreen are notoriously volatile—they’re light and heat sensitive (oh, the irony.) Last season’s “expired” bottle and can leave you vulnerable to a surprise sunburn.
Preston Wynne offers a plethora of sunscreen options, with something for every skin type. AcquaCures’ HydraSun SPF 30, is all-natural, super hydrating oil-free formulation that protects with Titanium Dioxide ($45, 2 oz.) My personal favorite is Intercept, Wynne Imagine’s new 30 SPF anti-oxidant enriched blend of chemical and topical zinc oxide protection. Designed to soothe micro-inflammation as well as protect against sun damage, Intercept comes in an ingenious airless pump jar. It features a matte finish. (It was originally offered under the name Solaris.) ($32, 30 ml.) Cosmedix, our cosmeceutical range, offers two popular options: Reflect, SPF 30, and Protect, SPF 17, both $52.25. Your esthetician can help you choose the perfect formula!
A Real Solution for Chronic Winter Dryness
SAVE ME, WYNNE ELIXIRS ORGANIC SUGAR SCRUB!
I call them “Lizard Legs.” Itchy, dry, awful, late-winter skin. Here’s a foolproof way to get them smooth and soft again. Treat yourself to our amazing hour long Wynne Elixirs Organic Sugar Scrub and bask in the glory of our Steam Canopy. Let our expert body therapist polish away your reptilian crust. After your dead cells are just a dusty memory, and your legs have a sexy red carpet sheen, take home some of your favorite “flavor” of Wynne Elixirs Sugar Scrub. Yes, it's okay to have more than one favorite flavor. Once a day, do a quick self-scrub when you shower. Trust me, it’s addictive! (Winter time seems to call for the spicy scent of Malaysian Silk.) Finish with a small amount of Wynne Elixirs Body Butter. As rich as it is, it quickly penetrates for a luscious dewy glow. The final secret: Alternate with our Glycolic Body Smoother once a day. This will keep the dead stuff from building up again, no matter how dry it gets!
Preston Wynne Spa reservations: Saratoga Spa: (408) 741-5525, Hotel Los Gatos: (408) 335-1777
Choose your favorite way to be reminded! Receive your appointment confirmations by phone or via
e mail! Just let us know which you prefer. (No more automated calls. Ugh—she’s gone!)
Get in even more trouble during your late-night internet wanderings: You can now make your own reservations online…just ask us for your login and you can set your own password!
Copyright 2007, Preston Wynne, Inc.
Monday, January 15, 2007
De-Aging Tips for Your Lips!
If you're a guest of our spa, you may be familiar with our new De-Aging Gracefully program, a combination of treatment modalities and alternative therapies that are designed to help you look your best without medical intervention. For example, we have a new HydraFacial machine that performs microdermabrasion with water pressure, and infuses hydrating serums into the skin to provide instant firmness. And we have a sensational Acupuncture Facial Rejuvenation program, commonly referred to as an Acupuncture Facelift. But today I'd like to talk about good old fashioned artifice!
One quick way to De-Age your makeup is to De-Age your lips. You can do this instantly when you rediscover lipliner, lipstick and the lip brush. Just as clothes are becoming a bit more constructed, so is makeup. We're not talking heavy--we're talking artful. And we're especially talking about the art of illusion.
Ladies, we've been awash in lip gloss and those forgiving little sponge applicators a bit too long. (Like roaming around the house in sweatpants for too long, after awhile you just feel a little sloppy.) One of the things that happens as we age is that the "ruby" (the pigmented portion) of the lip begins to fade. Another thing (yes, there's more) is that the fatty pads under the face shrink. For a moment, resist that overwhelming urge to pump your pouter full of Restylane and consider the power of the humble lip pencil.
STEP ONE: PRIMER
Many of us women-of-a-certain-age have what are politely called "whistle lines" around our lips. These lines attract lip color--the last thing in the world you want. This is called "feathering," and it's the quickest way to Re-Age your lips! We have a creamy, colorless product in a tube called "Lip Keep" that can be applied to the lips and the skin just outside the lipline. Let it dry, and you've got the perfect feather-prevention system. You may want to reapply it after eating a nice greasy hamburger (heaven forbid) but otherwise it will stay in place.
STEP TWO: LINER
If you've been wandering in the glossy wilderness, you may very well enjoy having a freshly sharpened lip pencil in your hand--it's a feeling of...control. Sketch, don't outline your mouth. By this I mean use a series of small, fine lines, feathered back into the body of the lip. We don't want to have ring-around-the-mouth when it wears off.
I'd recommend something close to your natural lip color--not surprisingly, we have a color called "Natural" that is extremely versatile. And my second choice is "Pink Glass", which is a very juicy warm pink, ideal with some of the clearer rosy shades. While we do have lovely, creamy, automatic lip pencils, for real artistry, nothing beats the old-fashioned, wood-encased version. Yes, they're harder, but they hold a point better.
(If you're wearing red, you're best off with a red lip liner. "Earth Red" is a rich, slightly warm red that works well on lots of different coloring.)
STEP THREE: LIP COLOR
I've rediscovered the joy of real lipstick lately. Why? It stays on, and it moisturizes better than gloss because of it. Want to find your most wearable, versatile lip color? Look at the inside of your lip. The hue you see there is your perfect color--simply a brighter, deeper version of what's on the outside. You'll be able to wear it with virtually anything. If you're lucky enough to live in Silicon Valley, drop into the spa or call us for a complimentary makeup consultation. Our artist will pick out a great shade for you.
You've got a real, Big Girl lipstick now. But wait, don't scribble away with that tanklike tube--for heavens sake, get out your nice sable retractable lip brush and use it to apply the color. While you're doing that, you're blending your lip liner in, as well. When you're done, flash a big smile in the mirror to check for gaps.
Blot very lightly with tissue. (If you want your lipstick to last forever, pull apart a two-ply tissue and apply loose powder to your lips through the thin single sheet lips with a brush. Reapply another layer of lipstick, repeat, and forget about it. And omit the last step, below)
If you're flashing back to the 80's with me right now, that's okay. Breathe through it! And notice how great your mouth looks. Firmer, fuller--dare we say it? Younger!
LAST STEP: Add a little gloss just in the center for highlight. It gives the effect of a moist, sensual mouth without making you feel like a Venus flytrap. A tiny touch of "Baby Lips" Lip Lacquer is very long lasting. This is also a great "going to the gym" lip color on its own.
De-Aging Etiquette: I was recently asked by a young client why her mother would never let her put on her lip color in public, but shooed her off to the restroom instead. Life is complicated! When you leave the innocent world of lip gloss behind, and graduate to the fine art of the lip brush, you'll need to use a mirror to touch up. And the official rule thumb for public preening: if you can do it without a mirror, you can do it in public. So if you must get out the heavy equipment, you'll have to head offstage! While you're at it, you could actually powder your nose...
One quick way to De-Age your makeup is to De-Age your lips. You can do this instantly when you rediscover lipliner, lipstick and the lip brush. Just as clothes are becoming a bit more constructed, so is makeup. We're not talking heavy--we're talking artful. And we're especially talking about the art of illusion.
Ladies, we've been awash in lip gloss and those forgiving little sponge applicators a bit too long. (Like roaming around the house in sweatpants for too long, after awhile you just feel a little sloppy.) One of the things that happens as we age is that the "ruby" (the pigmented portion) of the lip begins to fade. Another thing (yes, there's more) is that the fatty pads under the face shrink. For a moment, resist that overwhelming urge to pump your pouter full of Restylane and consider the power of the humble lip pencil.
STEP ONE: PRIMER
Many of us women-of-a-certain-age have what are politely called "whistle lines" around our lips. These lines attract lip color--the last thing in the world you want. This is called "feathering," and it's the quickest way to Re-Age your lips! We have a creamy, colorless product in a tube called "Lip Keep" that can be applied to the lips and the skin just outside the lipline. Let it dry, and you've got the perfect feather-prevention system. You may want to reapply it after eating a nice greasy hamburger (heaven forbid) but otherwise it will stay in place.
STEP TWO: LINER
If you've been wandering in the glossy wilderness, you may very well enjoy having a freshly sharpened lip pencil in your hand--it's a feeling of...control. Sketch, don't outline your mouth. By this I mean use a series of small, fine lines, feathered back into the body of the lip. We don't want to have ring-around-the-mouth when it wears off.
I'd recommend something close to your natural lip color--not surprisingly, we have a color called "Natural" that is extremely versatile. And my second choice is "Pink Glass", which is a very juicy warm pink, ideal with some of the clearer rosy shades. While we do have lovely, creamy, automatic lip pencils, for real artistry, nothing beats the old-fashioned, wood-encased version. Yes, they're harder, but they hold a point better.
(If you're wearing red, you're best off with a red lip liner. "Earth Red" is a rich, slightly warm red that works well on lots of different coloring.)
STEP THREE: LIP COLOR
I've rediscovered the joy of real lipstick lately. Why? It stays on, and it moisturizes better than gloss because of it. Want to find your most wearable, versatile lip color? Look at the inside of your lip. The hue you see there is your perfect color--simply a brighter, deeper version of what's on the outside. You'll be able to wear it with virtually anything. If you're lucky enough to live in Silicon Valley, drop into the spa or call us for a complimentary makeup consultation. Our artist will pick out a great shade for you.
You've got a real, Big Girl lipstick now. But wait, don't scribble away with that tanklike tube--for heavens sake, get out your nice sable retractable lip brush and use it to apply the color. While you're doing that, you're blending your lip liner in, as well. When you're done, flash a big smile in the mirror to check for gaps.
Blot very lightly with tissue. (If you want your lipstick to last forever, pull apart a two-ply tissue and apply loose powder to your lips through the thin single sheet lips with a brush. Reapply another layer of lipstick, repeat, and forget about it. And omit the last step, below)
If you're flashing back to the 80's with me right now, that's okay. Breathe through it! And notice how great your mouth looks. Firmer, fuller--dare we say it? Younger!
LAST STEP: Add a little gloss just in the center for highlight. It gives the effect of a moist, sensual mouth without making you feel like a Venus flytrap. A tiny touch of "Baby Lips" Lip Lacquer is very long lasting. This is also a great "going to the gym" lip color on its own.
De-Aging Etiquette: I was recently asked by a young client why her mother would never let her put on her lip color in public, but shooed her off to the restroom instead. Life is complicated! When you leave the innocent world of lip gloss behind, and graduate to the fine art of the lip brush, you'll need to use a mirror to touch up. And the official rule thumb for public preening: if you can do it without a mirror, you can do it in public. So if you must get out the heavy equipment, you'll have to head offstage! While you're at it, you could actually powder your nose...
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